Which Dog's For You?
Choosing a dog can be quite a decision. There are more than 100 purebreds alone, to say nothing of crossbreeds and mixed breeds. More than one-third of America's families own dogs, so in buying one you are joining a large group.
The purebred dog has parents which are of the same breed. About fourteen million, or one-third, of America's dogs are purebred, and most of these registered or eligible for registration with the American Kennel Club, the United Kennel Club or American Field, or other registration organizations. All dogs are basically friendly, faithful, and protective. But in buying a purebred you have a reasonable guarantee that the puppy will grow up to resemble his parents and the rest of his breed in temperament as well as looks. Certain breeds also have special abilities and are better adapted to certain purposes. The conscientious breeder has invested money in the parents, their care, and in raising the puppies. That is why they cost more than a cross or mixed breed.
If dogs of different breeds are mated, the offspring is a crossbreed and will probably have some characteristics of both breeds and be between the two in size. Dogs whose parentage is unknown, or a combination of several breeds over a matter of generations, are called mixed breeds. A cross or mixed breed may be as good a dog and as true a friend as any, but you know less about the puppy when you get him. He is usually given away because someone wants to get rid of him. You don't know what he will turn into and may not know how he has been cared for. However, the cross and mixed breed's heart is as big as that of a purebred and properly cared for he will return just as much devotion.
All dogs come from a common ancestor millions of years ago. But through the ages dogs have changed in time becoming individual types and then breeds, suited to the climate and occupation given them by man. These early dogs can be classified, but only roughly, as there is considerable overlapping in the ancestry of the breeds. The herd dogs with long, dense coats are bred for endurance and cleverness. The northern dogs of the cold countries have heavy coats, curled tails into which they bury their noses while sleeping in the cold, and are powerfully built sled and draft animals. The sporting dogs hunt by airborne scent and some also retrieve game for hunters. They are mostly smooth and short-coated and built to go through brush or retrieve in the water. Hounds are of two types, those hunting by sight being tall and built for speed; and the scent-hunters, mostly smooth-coated, slower dogs with upright gaily wagging tails and long pendulous ear flaps. Terriers are diggers with strong shoulders and front legs and powerful jaws for catching rats and other vermin. They are strong, active dogs developed by farmers and hunters in the British Isles. The guard dogs, which with the herd and sled dogs are called working dogs, come from the ancestral mastiff type of Greece and the Roman arena and are large and stout-hearted. Some breeds, most particularly the toys, are developed solely as companions. They average 3 to 10 pounds, range from short to profusely coated, and have a great variety of physical characteristics.
Large vs. Small
Before making your choice of breed, try to attend a local dog show. There you will find good examples of most purebreds, and you will see how they look as adults. Remember to always go by the size of the parents, for baby puppies have a way of growing up.
A small dog is usually advised for the apartment or small house, but one of the quite, larger breeds may be less underfoot than a small, more active one. And too, size is no indication of hardiness, for many of the small breeds are tough and sturdy and make equally good pets in the country or the city.
The small toy breeds are well suited for the person who lives in a city apartment or travels a great deal. They adapt themselves to restricted quarters, require little exercise, are efficient "burglar alarms", and easily carried. If you are the active, outdoors type and would like a companion for the field as well as the fireside, you may prefer one of the sporting breeds such as the Spaniels, Setters, Pointers, or a Beagle or one of the other hounds. If you have plenty of room and like your dogs king-sized, there are the Great Dane, Irish Wolfhounds, Great Pyrenees, Newfoundland, and Saint Bernard, among others.
Short- vs. Long-Haired
If you are worried about dog hairs on the rug and the furniture, remember that most short-haired breeds are apt to shed a little hair all year long, especially if kept in the house where heat and dry air promote continuous light shedding. Long-haired breeds shed mostly in spring, when they need vigorous grooming to help remove the old coat. Frequent brushing will remove loose, dead hair and prevent it from being a nuisance with any breed.
Whether smooth or long-haired, large or small, most dogs can live outdoors if they have adequate protection from dampness, drafts and cold. They also will do well indoors if not overheated. But it is the house dog, put out in the cold with no shelter, or the outdoor dog going in and out of the house that is likely to suffer from too many sudden changes of temperature.
Male vs. Female
Whether you buy a male or female puppy is largely a matter of preference. Females are often easier to housetrain, although some may be slower than others. However, housetraining a male or a female should be a small matter, taking a few weeks in your pet's lifetime of perhaps 12 or 14 years, ages now common with well cared-for dogs. If you don't want to raise a litter, a female can be spayed and you spared the twice-yearly job of keeping her confined or boarded out for two or three weeks while she is "in season." With a male you will not have this problem but he may at times feel the need to follow his instincts and stray from home. However, the female, too, may have a wanderlust, so it is wise to exercise all dogs by walking them on leashes or have a fenced yard to insure safety from cars, strays and other dangers of the "open road."
A Dog For A Child
There is no breed which is the best child's pet. It is generally a good idea to buy a puppy eight to twelve weeks old, old enough to start being a playmate for the child. But the best age depends on the breed, on the individual puppy, and also on the child - and the supervision given by the parents. Very young puppies want to do nothing but eat and sleep and attempts to get them to play will just tire them out and disappoint the child. Too big and bouncing a puppy may frighten a child not used to dogs by unintentionally knocking him or her down, and spoil the relationship at the start. If the children in the family are young, they cannot be expected to understand that a small puppy is fragile. The puppy must be protected from their well-intentioned but often disastrous teasing or mauling; from being dropped, poked or pulled.
If the parents teach correctly, the children will learn how to handle the new puppy. Always pick up the puppy with both hands so his hindquarters are supported, not dangling; but don't pick him up unless really necessary. Leave him alone and undisturbed when he's eating; don't tease him by alternately giving and withholding food, sticks or other objects. Aside from these few general rules, children and dogs will usually find their own way of getting along together.
For the family with active older children, one of the terrier breeds or a Boxer or Dalmatian might be considered. For young children, two to six years or so, consider the larger herding breeds such as the Briard, Collie, Old English Sheepdog, Puli, etc. Their herding instinct makes them unusually good at taking care of children. But no matter how easy going and strong a dog may be, it should not be expected to tolerate abuse - unintentional or otherwise - from children. Some dogs are "sharp", over-reactive to children's normal noise and activity. If your dog has this type of personality, extra supervision is needed to make sure children and the dog share mutual respect.
When Choosing Your Puppy
He should be at least eight weeks old. Remember that even then he is still a baby, and not strong enough for hard rough-housing with the children. An older pup, three months and up, is better for older children.
Select a well developed, outgoing puppy. Avoid the extremely shy, retiring pup. Unless you're willing to give him extra love and attention, he is likely to be a misfit. His eyes should be clear and bright. His nose and ears should be clean, with no sign of discharge. The skin should be clean, with no hairless or red spots. Constant scratching is a sign of skin trouble or parasites. The coat should be glossy and not shedding excessively. Bone structure should be solid, without curvature or bumps, indicating rickets; and the pup, while he may be "adolescent" and gawky, should not be lame or stiff.
The breeder or kennel owner should furnish information on the puppy's vaccinations and worming. This will be an aid to your own veterinarian when the puppy is taken for a checkup and, if necessary, follow-up vaccinations and wormings. The breeder also should provide written instructions for feeding. Many breeders give new puppy owners a few days' supply of the product which the puppies have been fed. This insures no interruption in the feeding program when puppies go to their new homes.
Pet-Selection Resources
"A Veterinarian's Way of Selecting a Proper Pet, pamphlet, AVMA
Choosing a Dog- A Guide to Picking the Perfect Breed, Nancy Baer (Berkley Books, 1995)
The Chosen Puppy- How to Select and Raise a Great Puppy From an Animal Shelter, Carol Lea Benjamin (Howell Book House, 1990)
Medical & Genetic Aspects of Purebred Dogs (2nd ed.) Ross D. Clark and Joan R.Stainer, eds. (Forum Publications, 1994)
Medical, Genetic, and Behavioral Aspects of Purebred Cats, Ross D. Clark (Forum Publications, 1992)
The Perfect Puppy- How to Choose Your Dog by Its Behavior, Benjamin L. Hart and Lynette A. Hart (W.H. Freeman Co., 1988)
The Pet Connection- Its Influence on Our Health and Quality of Life, R.K. Anderson and Benjamin L. Hart (Center to Study Human-Animal Relationships and Environments, 1984, Chapter titled "Selecting the Best Companion Animal- Breed and Gender Specific Behavioral Profiles, by Benjamin L. Hart and Lynette A. Hart
Your Purebred Puppy- A Buyer's Guide, Michele Lowell (H. Holt, 1990)
Your Purebred Kitten- A Buyer's Guide, Michele Lowell (Henry Holt & Co., 1995) Your Healthy Pet- A Practical Guide to Choosing and Raising Happier, Healthier Dogs and Cats, Amy Marder (Rodale Press, 1994)
The Right Dog for You, Daniel F. Tortora (Simon & Schuster, 1983)
Selec A Dog, Canada Pedigree, Toronto, Ontario, Canada; or Kal-Kan Foods, Vernon, California |
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Breed Information
Consult these sources of pet breeders
If clients want a purebred pet so they can be more confident about the animal's appearance and behavior, provide this list to help them find a reputable breeder-
- Dogs in USA Annual and Cats in USA Annual, (Annual Buyer's Guide), Fancy Publications, Irvine, California
- Dog Fancy Fido Finder, http-//animalnetwork.com/dogs/finder/default.asp
- Cat Fancy Feline Finder, http-//animalnetwork.com/cats/finder/default.asp
- Cat Fanciers Association, www.cfainc.org
- Dogs in Canada Annual magazine, Apex Publishing, Etobicoke, Ontario, Canada, www.dogs-in-canada.com
- American Kennel Club, www.akc.org, (900) 407-7877
- Canadian Kennel Club, www.ckc.ca, (800) 250-8040 or (416) 675-5511
- United Kennel Club, www.ukcdogs.com, (616) 343-9020
- Purina Interactive breed selection service, www.purina.com/dogs/index.html
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Pet-care resources
Check out these training and pet-care references
Once clients have selected pets, help them maintain the perfect fit and forge a lasting bond using these pet-care and training resources-
Dog Behavior and Training- Veterinary Advice for Owners, Lowell J. Ackerman, Wayne Hunthausen, and Gary Landsberg, eds. (TFH Publications, 1996)
Cat Behavior and Training- Veterinary Advice for Owners, Lowell J. Ackerman, Wayne Hunthausen, and Gary Landsberg, eds. (TFH Publications, 1996)
Manners for the Modern Dog, Gwen Bohnenkamp (Perfect Paws, 1990)
From the Cat's Point of View- The Complete Book on Cat Behavior, Gwen Bohnenkamp (Perfect Paws, 1991)
Help! My Dog Has an Attitude, Gwen Bohnenkamp (Perfect Paws, 1994)
Owner's Guide to Better Behavior in Dogs, William E. Campbell (Alpine Publications, 1995)
Doctor Dunbar's Good Little Dog Book, Ian Dunbar (James and Kenneth Publishers, 1992)
How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks- A Sirius Puppy Training Manual, Ian Dunbar (James and Kenneth Publishers, 1998)
A Pre Puppy Primer, Ian Dunbar (James and Kenneth Publishers, 1995)
Think Dog- An Owner's Guide to Canine Psychology, John Fisher (Trafalgar Square, 1996)
The Behaviour of Dogs and Cats, J. Fisher, ed. (Stanley Paul, 1993)
The Cat's Mind- Understanding Your Cat's Behaviour, Bruce Fogle (Howell Book House, 1990)
ASPCA Complete Dog Training Manual, Bruce Fogle (Dorling Kindersley, 1993)
The Dog's Mind, Bruce Fogle (Viking Penguin, 1990)
Superdog- Raising the Perfect Canine Companion, Michael W. Fox (Howell Book House, 1990)
The Waltham Book of Human-Animal Interaction- Benefits and Responsibilities of Pet Ownership, I. Robinson (Elsevier Science, 1995)
How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With, Clarice Rutherford (Alpine Publications, 1992)
Puppy Primer, T. Ryan (People-Pet Partnership, 1990)
The Toolbox for Remodeling Your Problem Dog, Terry Ryan (Howell Books, 1997)
Dog Training- The Gentle Modern Method, David Weston (Howell Books, 1992) |
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